An active shrine in a congested part of the city, located next to the Grand Hyatt Erawan and so often packed with people paying respects to the Brahma. There's a small, traditional orchestra and conventional Thai dancers who will perform for a fee. Although more modern than most of Bangkok's shrines, Erawan has been restored a couple of times: firstly when the new Grand Hyatt replaced the old Erawan Hotel in 1991; then again in 2006, after a crazed man smashed the statue. Sadly, he came to a grisly end, beaten to death by onlookers outside.

For something a little different, visit this shrine with its hundreds of phallic carvings and statues, made of both wood and stone. The park honors the female fertility spirit Chao Mae Tuptim and is often visited by women who are trying to conceive. The tradition is to leave ribbons, lotuses and jasmine offerings on the carvings and statues. Maybe there's something in it ­ the park's popularity certainly never wanes. Find it next to the Nai Lert Park Hotel on the klong (canal) side.

Not to be missed. King Rama I, who was first of the present ruling dynasty, built the Grand Palace walled city in 1782 and it is Thailand's most revered place. Thais, who visit for free, often come to pay respects. It has become more opulent with each new king ­ the current one is Rama IX ­ with many temples, buildings, murals and statues. Wat Phra Keo temple is Thailand's most important, where the green jade Emerald Buddha is housed. There's so much to see it's almost overwhelming during one visit and warrants several. The king no longer lives on the grounds, but some parts are occasionally used for official functions, such as ambassadorial visits.

It's called Temple of the Dawn and is magical at that time, but if early mornings aren't your thing, the sunset is just as magnificent. There are a couple of cafes and restaurants on the Bangkok side of the Chao Phraya River perfect for watching, or you can rent a longtail boat and watch from there. The center prang is 282 feet tall and there are four smaller prangs at each corner of the symmetrical design. All are covered with pieces of Chinese porcelain. You're allowed to climb up the steep steps to the second level but the higher reaches have been closed to visitors for some years now. This is a popular space for festivals, so check the website to see what's coming up.

One of the musts, conveniently sited near the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Keo, plus across the river from Wat Arun. This is the city's largest wat, housing a 150-foot, gold-plated sculpture of a reclining Buddha. The feet alone, with inlaid mother of pearl signs of the Buddha, are ten feet long. Wat Pho is the center of the eponymous massage style found all over Thailand. A school teaching massage still occupies part of the wat, and you can study for up to ten days here for a small fee. Alternatively, enjoy a one-hour massage for a nominal B200 fee (you should also tip B100 or so). The grounds are extensive, with numerous buildings including one containing nearly 400 seated Buddhas. An English-speaking monk is often available to answer questions.