Not to be missed. King Rama I, who was first of the present ruling dynasty, built the Grand Palace walled city in 1782 and it is Thailand's most revered place. Thais, who visit for free, often come to pay respects. It has become more opulent with each new king ­ the current one is Rama IX ­ with many temples, buildings, murals and statues. Wat Phra Keo temple is Thailand's most important, where the green jade Emerald Buddha is housed. There's so much to see it's almost overwhelming during one visit and warrants several. The king no longer lives on the grounds, but some parts are occasionally used for official functions, such as ambassadorial visits.

During the second world war, Jim Thompson served with the OSS, the organization that later became the CIA. At the end of the war he finished up in Thailand and, after trying out some other business ventures, turned to the Thai silk industry. He is now credited with saving it. Having mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967, he has left behind a series of remarkable houses, made from homes he bought upcountry and rebuilt on his grounds in Bangkok. Add to this his collection of furniture and artworks and his home is a fascinating museum. A silk and souvenir shop as well as a restaurant are also on the grounds.

Klongs, the canals that crisscross Bangkok, have declined in number over the years and are not the waterways they were, when the city was dubbed the Venice of the East. However, enough remain on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River to make klong tours worthwhile. Pile into a longtail boat and watch the world pass you by. You'll get a fascinating insight into how the locals live their lives, floating as you do so close to their houses. Your hotel will be able to recommend klong tours, or you can simply turn up at the pier at the end of the Skytrain at Taksin bridge, next to the Shangri-La Hotel. Trips range from B600 and up for an hour or more and often stop by the Royal Barge Museum.

A big part of the culture and fascinating to watch, Thai boxing involves two competitors dancing around each other in a play of wits then bursting into a flurry of flashing fists and flying feet. Fighters can use their gloved hands, elbows and feet, but certain parts of the body are off-limits. Watch the crowd and their reactions, as well as the gambling sessions taking place in the middle and back sections. You can buy tickets at the door ­ each session includes a number of fights, so don't worry if you're a little late. If you want to secure entrance in advance, most hotels can also arrange tickets ­ ringside is the most expensive. Fights are also held at Lumphini Stadium (Lumphini Park, Rama IV Road; phone 02 251-4303; Tuesday and Friday 6pm, Saturday 5pm and 8:30pm).

Home to one of the world's best collections of Southeast Asian art and a vast collection of Thai artifacts. Many masterpieces from the provinces are now here, sometimes to the consternation of provincial museums, but it's a great place to gain a real overview of Thai history. There are bronze tools and ceramic utensils from Ban Chiang, dating back to 3000-4000BC and on up through the rest of Thai history. The Khmer period is very well represented, as are the Sukhothai period of the 13th-14th centuries and the Ayutthaya period between the 1300s and 1700s.